This Is Florida · Home and Garden

What fruit can you grow in your Florida backyard?

Bananas and pineapples can grow in much of the state with the right spot and cold protection. Here is what suits North, Central, and South Florida.

Checked November 6, 2026 · THIS IS FLORIDA · University of Florida and USDA sources

The short version

  • North Florida: fruit that handles cold, like satsumas, figs, rabbiteye blueberries, muscadine grapes, and persimmons.
  • Central Florida: figs, persimmons, southern highbush blueberries, low-chill peaches, and citrus in warmer spots.
  • South Florida: the widest choice of tropical fruit, including mangoes, avocados, star fruit, lychee, and mamey sapote.
  • Bananas and pineapples: possible across much of the state, but freezes can hurt or kill them. Pots help with pineapples.
  • Live in a cold spot and want tropical fruit? The University of Florida suggests growing it in a container.
  • Check before you plant. Some popular fruit, including dragon fruit and coconut, carries an invasive label in parts of Florida.
  • Not sure? Your county UF/IFAS Extension office can recommend what works locally.

Is there a frost line in Florida?

People use the term, but we did not find an official frost line on the University of Florida or USDA pages we checked. The closest thing is how the University of Florida's vegetable guide divides the state with two highways:

RegionWhereFrost and freezes
NorthNorth of State Road 40Especially vulnerable
CentralBetween State Roads 40 and 70Occur occasionally
SouthBelow State Road 70Occur rarely

Those lines come from the vegetable guide. UF's fruit pages generally say North, Central, or South Florida without defining them, and sometimes name a city instead, so use the highways as a rough guide. Freezes do not stop at a line on a map.

Find your USDA zone by ZIP code

Need to find those roads? See the Florida Department of Transportation's official state map.

Landmarks from University of Florida guides

PlaceWhat the guide says
OcalaRabbiteye blueberries are generally grown where winters are as cold as Ocala or colder. Southern highbush is best south of Ocala.
North of OrlandoSatsumas are especially suited to these colder locations.
Orlando to Tampa (I-4)This line averages about 200 chill hours a year. One guide sees little pineapple guava fruit south of it.
SebringSouthern highbush blueberries are best suited north of here.
Merritt Island and SarasotaAtemoya grows best along the South Florida coast from these points southward.
Fort MyersHome gardeners may have luck with peaches this far south.

Your yard can differ from your zone

  • USDA zones are based on the average coldest winter temperature over a 30-year period, not the lowest temperature ever or the lowest still to come.
  • USDA says a yard can be warmer or cooler than the area around it. Low spots can be frost pockets.
  • The University of Florida says North Central Florida is mainly zones 9a and 9b, and that the coast tends to be milder.

Fruit by region

North Florida

Satsuma, kumquat, Meyer lemon, calamondin, fig, rabbiteye blueberry, blackberry, muscadine grape, persimmon, pomegranate, mulberry, loquat, apple, olive, pawpaw, elderberry, peach, plum, nectarine, sand pear, pineapple guava, and strawberry. Bananas can grow here, but fruit depends on avoiding a freeze. Pineapple and other tropical fruit do best in pots you can move.

Central Florida

Fig, persimmon, southern highbush blueberry, muscadine grape, low-chill peach, plum, nectarine, kumquat, Meyer lemon, other citrus in warm spots, pomegranate, mulberry, elderberry, olive as far south as Orlando, pineapple guava, and strawberry. Bananas, pineapples, and papayas are possible with protection. Mangoes grow in the southern half of the state.

South Florida

Mango, avocado, banana, pineapple, papaya, star fruit, lychee, longan, mamey sapote, jaboticaba, atemoya, sugar apple, jackfruit, Key lime and other citrus, astringent persimmon, pomegranate, mulberry, elderberry, 'Prime-Ark Freedom' blackberry, and strawberry.

Want a month-by-month to-do list? UF publishes gardening calendars for North, Central, and South Florida. Looking for watermelon or cantaloupe? They're on our vegetable and herb guide.

All 41 fruit choices

Choose your region, or type a fruit. Blank boxes mean the guide we used didn't give a number.

FruitWhere it does wellCold limitTime to fruitGood to know
BananaNearly all areas of the state. 'Dwarf Cavendish' can be grown throughout Florida.Damage may occur at or below 32°F. Below 28°F may kill plants to the ground.10 to 24 monthsUsually comes back in spring after a freeze. Needs regular water and frequent fertilizer.
PineappleBest along the southeast and southwest coasts. Grown in protected spots throughout Florida.Below 28°F kills the plant.18 to 32 months (see below)Grows well in a 3 to 7 gallon pot you can bring inside. One fruit per plant.
KumquatThroughout Florida.UF pages say 10°F and 16°F.UF says easy to manage once established. Self-pollinating, so one tree will fruit.
Meyer lemonThroughout the state.Protect below 20°F.Self-pollinating. Grows in a container.
SatsumaUF's pick for northern Florida. Especially suited to cold spots north of Orlando.14°FCitrus greening is a risk. The fruit is usually finished by winter.
Sugar Belle® mandarinOn UF's list for northern Florida.18°FBred by UF to better tolerate citrus greening.
CalamondinOn UF's list for northern Florida.22°FProtect young trees from cold until established.
Other citrusAreas that don't regularly freeze. Key lime needs the warmer parts of the state.Citrus greening is a risk. Limes and lemons can be grown in containers and moved before a freeze.
FigUF says fairly easy to grow in North and Central Florida.18°FPlant common figs only, because they need no pollinating wasp. Give it full sun all day.
Rabbiteye blueberryAreas with winters as cold as Ocala or colder.UF says easier to grow than southern highbush. Plant at least two rabbiteye varieties so they cross-pollinate.
Southern highbush blueberrySouth of Ocala and north of Sebring. North Central Florida only with protection from late freezes.UF says typically more difficult to grow. Needs a second southern highbush variety to cross-pollinate.
Muscadine grapeNative. Grows wild down to Central Florida.UF calls it low-maintenance. Self-fertile choices include 'Carlos' and 'Southern Home'. Needs yearly pruning.
Japanese persimmonCentral and North Florida. In South Florida, choose astringent types.UF says easy to grow. Plant in full sun.
PomegranateZones 7 to 11.Self-pollinating. In North Florida, fruit matures July to November. In South Florida, it may fruit year-round.
MulberryMany Florida landscapes. The red mulberry is native.Needs very little care. Fallen fruit stains, so keep it away from driveways. Sap can cause a rash, and male red mulberry pollen is highly allergenic.
LoquatOne of the best-adapted fruit trees for North Central Florida.Very cold hardy and drought tolerant. See the caution label in the watch list below.
Peach, plum, nectarineNorth and Central Florida. Home gardeners may have luck with peaches as far south as Fort Myers.Needs enough winter chill, so choose a variety for your area. Peach trees usually bear for 8 to 10 years.
Sand pearUF calls it an excellent fruit tree for North Florida.Within 3 yearsCheck the variety's cross-pollination needs before you buy.
Pineapple guavaCan be grown throughout Florida, zones 8 to 11. Fruit is the question in the south (see below).Fruit can be damaged below 28°F.2 to 4 yearsNot considered invasive. A self-fruiting variety like 'Coolidge' does not need a second plant.
BlackberrySeveral varieties for North and North Central Florida. South Florida can try 'Prime-Ark Freedom'.Likes full sun and well-drained, rich soil. UF does not generally recommend raspberries for the Southeast.
StrawberryStatewide. Plant in fall. UF's dates differ, so see the strawberry section below.Cover plants if frost is predicted.UF says easy to grow and a good choice for new gardeners. Works in raised beds and containers.
AppleNorth and north-central Florida. Needs about 300 to 400 hours below 45°F in winter.Within a few yearsPlant late December to February. Needs cross-pollination. 'TropicSweet', 'Anna', and 'Dorsett Golden' bloom together.
OliveUF researchers have tested trees as far south as Orlando. Farther south is a gamble.Protect below 20°F.About 3 years'Arbequina' self-pollinates, but other varieties nearby seem to help. Likes sandy, well-drained soil. Buy a European olive for edible fruit.
PawpawCommon pawpaw suits North Florida, zones 5A to 8B. It's native.Don't eat the skin, seeds, leaves, or stems. Handling the fruit can irritate skin.
ElderberryNative. Grows in zones 4A to 10B. Choose a variety native to Florida.Eat only ripe black berries, prepared with care. Other plant parts can be toxic. See the safety section.
Dragon fruit (pitaya)Does best where frosts and freezes are rare.Long freezes at 31°F may damage it.From seed: up to 7 yearsCheck first: UF labels it invasive for Central and South Florida. See the watch list.
CoconutZones 10B to 11 only.Can't take freezing.Flowers after 4 to 6 yearsCheck first: UF labels it invasive in South Florida, with planting conditions. See the watch list.
Passion fruitOn UF's South Florida tropical fruit list. Needs a fence or trellis, full sun, and well-drained soil.3 to 6 monthsCheck first: the same guide labels it a high invasion risk. See the watch list.
GuavaUF says anywhere in Florida without prolonged freezes. Its labels focus on Central and South.Check first: UF pages disagree on its label. See the watch list.
JackfruitOn UF's South Florida tropical fruit list. Needs flood-free, well-drained soil.32°FA large tree, 40 to 50 feet. Sticky latex in the peel, so oil your hands before peeling.
PapayaUsually South Florida. Possible statewide with significant cold protection or containers.Significant damage below 31°F.One UF guide calls it relatively easy to grow. Short-lived, and some gardeners treat it as an annual.
Miracle fruitBest in a container in Florida. In the ground only in South Florida, and not in alkaline soil.Not frost tolerant.About 3 yearsBring the pot inside before a freeze. It wants acidic soil.
MangoSouthern half of Florida.28 to 30°FGrafted: 3 to 5 years. Seed: can take 10 years.One UF guide calls it tough and relatively easy. Needs 20 to 30 feet of space. See the watch list.
AvocadoBest where it doesn't freeze. A few varieties, like 'Choquette', can grow farther north with a good site and protection.26 to 30°FGrafted: 3 to 4 years. Seed: 4 to 10 years.Laurel wilt disease is a threat. Buy only from registered nurseries.
Star fruit (carambola)South Florida, especially southeastern and southwestern counties.27 to 32°FPeople with kidney disease should not eat it unless their doctor says it is safe.
LycheeSouth Florida.28 to 32°F3 to 5 yearsPlant at least 25 feet from buildings and power lines. UF says unreliable bearing is a major problem.
LonganSouth Florida.28 to 30°F3 to 5 yearsPlant in full sun. UF says unreliable bearing is a major problem.
Mamey sapoteSouth Florida, in a warm, protected spot.28 to 32°FUF says it requires little care, but it can reach 30 to 50 feet.
JaboticabaSouth Florida, zones 10a to 11b.29°FUp to 8 yearsIn southeastern Florida, it may do best in a container because of the high soil pH.
AtemoyaCoastal South Florida, from Sarasota and Merritt Island southward.32°F'Gefner' avoids hand pollination. UF says atemoya suits small yards.
Sugar appleWidely planted in South Florida home gardens.28 to 30°FA small tree, rarely over 20 feet, that suits small yards.

Cold numbers in the 26 to 32°F range come from the University of Florida's tropical fruit guide, which lists the temperature at or below which damage may occur. Each fruit name links to its main source. Fruit time can vary by variety, care, and climate.

How to grow bananas

  • For fruit, choose an eating type. Popular choices include 'Lady Finger', 'Apple', and 'Ice Cream'. 'Dwarf Cavendish' is widely available and can be grown throughout Florida.
  • Check the label. The most cold-hardy bananas, like Japanese fiber banana and black Thai, are grown for looks. The University of Florida says many ornamental bananas aren't good for eating.
  • Pick the spot. Use full sun, moist fertile soil, and shelter from wind. Choose the warmest part of the yard that does not flood.
  • Water often. Bananas like 1 to 1½ inches a week, but soil that stays wet can harm them.
  • Feed often. The University of Florida suggests fertilizing 4 to 6 times a year on Florida's sandy soils.
  • Thin the plants. Keep 3 or 4 stalks of different ages. The stalk dies soon after it bears fruit, and younger ones take over.
  • After a freeze: plants turn brown below freezing but typically come back in spring.

Fruit usually matures 10 to 24 months after planting. In South Florida, watch for nematode damage, fusarium wilt, and sigatoka disease. Strong winds can topple plants, so don't plant them close to windows.

Sources: Gardening Solutions: Bananas and Banana Growing in the Florida Home Landscape.

How to grow a pineapple from the top

  • Save the top of a store-bought pineapple. This is the crown.
  • Clean it up. Remove any excess fruit and a few lower leaves to expose the roots.
  • Plant it 3 to 4 inches deep in a well-drained container with good potting soil.
  • Give it full sun. Use a 3 to 7 gallon pot. A bigger pot means a bigger plant and fruit.
  • Water during dry spells, about once a week in sandy soil. Avoid long periods of wet soil, which can cause root rot.
  • Move it before a freeze. Below 28°F kills the plant. In the ground, cover it with blankets or mulch for some protection.
  • Protect the fruit from small animals as it ripens.

Each plant produces one fruit. It's ready when it smells ripe and the peel turns from green to golden brown. Pups from the plant can give you more pineapples.

Sources: Gardening Solutions: Pineapple and Pineapple Growing in the Florida Home Landscape.

When to plant strawberries

Two University of Florida pages give different planting dates, so we show both. Either way, plant in the fall.

RegionStrawberry pageVegetable guideVarieties the guide suggests
NorthSept. 15 to Oct. 15Oct. to Nov.Camarosa, Encore
CentralSept. 25 to Oct. 25Sept. 25 to Oct. 25Sweet Sensation, Medallion, Brilliance, Ember, Encore
SouthOct. 1 to Dec. 1Oct.Sweet Sensation, Medallion, Brilliance, Ember, Encore

The vegetable guide says strawberries grow as an annual in Florida, starting with disease-free plants in the fall. Plant only varieties adapted to Florida.

One plant or two?

Some fruit will set with one plant. Some needs a partner, so check before you buy.

What UF saysFruit
One plant can fruitKumquat, Meyer lemon, pomegranate, common fig, self-fertile muscadines like 'Carlos' and 'Southern Home', and 'Coolidge' pineapple guava.
One can fruit, but others help'Arbequina' olive.
Plant a second varietyRabbiteye blueberry (two rabbiteye varieties), southern highbush blueberry (two southern highbush varieties), and apple (varieties that bloom together).
Plant 2 or 3 different typesDragon fruit, to increase the chance of fruit. Some varieties sold in nurseries can't pollinate themselves.
Check the varietySand pear.

Buying and planting a fruit tree

  • Buy citrus and avocado from registered nurseries. UF says to buy only certified citrus from nurseries registered with the state, and avocado trees only from registered nurseries.
  • Know what a seedling costs you in time. A grafted mango may fruit in 3 to 5 years, but one from seed can take 10. A grafted avocado takes 3 to 4 years, and one from seed takes 4 to 10.
  • Plant at the right time. UF's North and Central calendars say to plant temperate fruit trees like peaches in January, so roots develop before the warm, dry spring. The Central calendar says to plant tropical and subtropical trees once the danger of frost has passed. Container-grown citrus can be planted any time of year.
  • Give it room. For citrus, UF says at least 15 feet between trees, and away from buildings, power lines, septic tanks, and drain fields.
  • Water a new tree on a schedule. For a young citrus tree, UF suggests a basin that holds 5 to 10 gallons, filled twice a week for the first month, then less often.
  • Fertilize with a light hand at first. For citrus, use light, frequent doses on young trees, then 4 to 5 times a year after the third year. Never mound fertilizer against the trunk. UF's tropical fruit guide has a chart for other fruit.
  • Short on room? UF says dwarf trees and containers both help. Change the potting mix or move up a pot size as needed, and prune to keep a healthy shape.

Sources: Citrus, Avocado, Mango, Citrus Culture in the Home Landscape, Dwarf Fruit Trees, and the North and Central gardening calendars.

Protect fruit from the cold

  • Water young citrus first. If a freeze is predicted, UF's North Florida calendar says to water small trees well at least a day ahead. You can also use covers that reach the ground.
  • Avoid low spots, where cold air settles.
  • Use a windbreak to slow the wind during a freeze.
  • Plant near a building in cold areas. It helps protect pineapples, though it slows their growth.
  • Use containers so you can move plants inside.
  • Plant new citrus early in spring so it's established before cold weather.
  • Look for cold-hardy citrus rootstock, such as sour orange or trifoliate orange.
  • Cut freeze damage later. On figs, prune damaged wood once new growth begins.

Sources: Cold-Hardy Citrus, Pineapple Growing, Dwarf Fruit Trees, and Figs.

Before you plant citrus

Citrus greening is found throughout Florida, and there is no treatment. Infected trees decline, and much of the fruit will be poor quality. Quarantines restrict moving infected and potentially infected trees.

  • Sweet oranges, mandarins, and tangelos are the most susceptible, the University of Florida says.
  • Good care and psyllid control won't prevent infection, but they may help the tree live longer.
  • Think your tree has it? Contact your county Extension office.
  • UF bred the Sugar Belle® mandarin to better tolerate the disease, and it is breeding more tolerant varieties.

Sources: Citrus Greening FAQ, Cold-Hardy Citrus, and Citrus Culture in the Home Landscape.

Fruit to check before you plant

Some popular fruit can spread into Florida's natural areas. The University of Florida rates plants in its Assessment of Non-Native Plants. A "caution" plant, as UF explains it for guava, is not called invasive, but should be managed so it doesn't escape the yard.

FruitWhat University of Florida pages say
Dragon fruit (pitaya)UF's dragon fruit guide labels Hylocereus undatus invasive for Central and South Florida. The same guide explains how to grow it: use a sturdy trellis and full or nearly full sun. Long freezes at 31°F may damage it. Fruit ripens June through November.
CoconutUF says invasive in South Florida, but it can be planted if kept away from canals, flowing waterways, and natural areas, and fallen fruit stays out of the water. Plant with caution in Central Florida. Not a problem species in North Florida, though it should only go in zones 10B to 11, because it can't take freezing.
SapodillaInvasive in South and Central Florida. Not recommended for planting.
Surinam cherryLabeled invasive in South Florida and caution in North and Central Florida.
GuavaGardening Solutions says it was reassessed and is now a caution plant for Central and South Florida. Older guides (guava, tropical fruit) still say invasive and not recommended for South Florida.
Passion fruitThe tropical fruit guide lists it as recommended for planting, but the same page labels Passiflora edulis "High Invasion Risk" for North, Central, and South Florida. Maypop is a native relative.
MangoRecommended in the tropical fruit guide, and labeled caution for Central and South Florida on the same page.
LoquatRecommended for North Central Florida, and labeled caution for Central and South Florida on the same page.

Check the assessment site or your county Extension office for the current rating before you buy.

Where University of Florida pages differ

  • Strawberry planting dates: see the strawberry table, which shows both sets of dates.
  • Pineapple wait: one page says 18 to 32 months from planting. The growing guide says 18 to 24 months.
  • Kumquat cold limit: one page says 10°F. Another says 16°F.
  • Pineapple guava in the south: one page says fruit may be low in extreme southern Florida. Another says little fruiting is seen south of I-4.
  • Papaya life span: one page says plants rarely reach ten years in Florida. Another says 1 to 3 years.

Safety before you eat

Backyard fruit isn't always safe to eat right off the plant. If you're not sure what a plant is, don't taste it.

  • Star fruit: UF says people with kidney disease should not eat it unless their doctor says it is safe.
  • Elderberry: eat only ripe black berries. Unripe berries, stems, and leaves can be toxic. UF suggests heating the juice and straining out the seeds. Its flowers look a lot like water hemlock, one of Florida's most poisonous plants, so be sure what you have.
  • Pawpaw: the skin and seeds can cause stomach pain. Don't eat the leaves or stems. Handling the fruit can irritate skin.
  • Mulberry: the sap can cause a rash, and male red mulberry pollen is highly allergenic.

Sources: Tropical and Subtropical Fruit Crops, Elderberry, Pawpaw, and Mulberry.

Can your city or HOA stop you?

  • City or county: Florida law says a county, city, or other local government may not regulate vegetable gardens on residential property. In this law, a vegetable garden is a plot of ground where herbs, fruits, flowers, or vegetables are grown for people to eat.
  • Local rules that still count: the same law allows general rules that don't target gardens, including drought watering, fertilizer use, and invasive plant control.
  • HOA: a separate law says an association may not restrict parcel owners or their tenants from keeping a vegetable garden on a parcel if it can't be seen from the frontage, an adjacent parcel, an adjacent common area, or a community golf course, unless general law or a local ordinance prohibits it. A garden people can see doesn't get that protection, so read your rules first. That section is in Florida's homeowners' association law. It does not mention condominiums.
  • Fertilizer: UF's Central Florida calendar says some cities ban fertilizer on lawns or landscape plants in the summer rainy season, June through September. Check for an ordinance in your area.
  • Watering: see Florida's watering days by city and county.

Laws checked November 6, 2026.

Questions people ask

What fruit is easy to grow in Florida?

University of Florida pages call strawberries and Japanese persimmons easy to grow, figs fairly easy in North and Central Florida, muscadine grapes low-maintenance, and kumquats easy to manage once established. The best choice depends on where you live.

Can you grow bananas in North Florida?

Yes, but expect freezes to knock them back. The University of Florida says 'Dwarf Cavendish' can be grown throughout Florida and can produce fruit if it does not freeze back in winter. Bananas typically come back in spring.

Can you grow a pineapple from a store-bought pineapple?

Yes. Save the leafy top, remove any excess fruit and a few lower leaves, and plant it 3 to 4 inches deep in a well-drained container with good potting soil. Fruit takes well over a year.

How cold can a pineapple plant get?

The University of Florida says temperatures below 28 degrees Fahrenheit will kill a pineapple plant. Cover plants in the ground or bring containers inside.

Where is the frost line in Florida?

We did not find an official frost line on the University of Florida or USDA pages we checked. The closest thing is in the University of Florida's vegetable guide: North is north of State Road 40, Central is between State Roads 40 and 70, and South is below State Road 70. It says frosts and freezes occur occasionally in Central Florida and rarely in South Florida. The USDA lets you look up your plant hardiness zone by ZIP code.

Can you grow dragon fruit in Florida?

Yes, but check first. The University of Florida's dragon fruit guide labels Hylocereus undatus invasive for Central and South Florida. It says plants may be damaged by long freezes at 31 degrees Fahrenheit and need a sturdy support. Planting 2 or 3 different types helps with fruit.

Do I need two fruit trees to get fruit?

It depends on the fruit. University of Florida pages say kumquats, Meyer lemons, and pomegranates are self-pollinating. Apples and blueberries need a second variety that blooms at the same time.

Can my city or HOA stop me from growing fruit?

Florida law says a county or city may not regulate vegetable gardens on residential property, and the law counts plots where fruit is grown to eat. General rules on drought watering, fertilizer, and invasive plants can still apply. A separate law says a homeowners' association may not restrict parcel owners or their tenants from keeping a vegetable garden that can't be seen from the frontage, an adjacent parcel, an adjacent common area, or a community golf course, unless general law or a local ordinance prohibits it.

Can you grow citrus in your Florida yard?

Yes, but citrus greening is found throughout Florida and has no treatment. Cold-hardy choices for northern Florida include satsumas, kumquats, calamondins, and Sugar Belle mandarins. Your county Extension office can help if you think a tree is infected.

Can you grow mangoes in North Florida?

The University of Florida says mangoes can be grown in the southern half of the state. It says growing fruit trees in containers is a good solution for North Florida gardeners who want tropical fruit.

Should I plant guava in Florida?

Check first. One University of Florida page says guava was reassessed and is now a caution plant for Central and South Florida. Other UF guides still say it is invasive and not recommended for South Florida. Both say Central Florida plantings should be managed so they do not escape.

Sources

General gardening information. Results vary by yard, variety, and winter. Your county UF/IFAS Extension office can give local advice.